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see if you can borrow a 4 blade et or cleaver , really helps with the steering wheel torque handling.

Steve

There has been a lot of setup work done so far. It has a 1.87 CLE coned with LWP, torque tab, solid mounts, Bob's tuner and housing, no rev limiter, CDI ignition, 6" jackplate, hotfoot throttle, toggle trim. I too have 100 lbs in the nose. It flies real nice at 75, but the NFB steering locks, and I'm over 7000 rpm with the 23 pitch. I'd like to find a 26 (haven't tried a cleaver yet) and a short mid to bring down the CG. I may be forgetting stuff here, but pretty much everything's been done.

Cool boat. One of my first fast boat rides was in a Vision... needless to say I got hooked.
I've got no hands on experience with the Vision but I would hazard a guess and say you are looking for a prop with all around minimal lift. With a wide pad and no help required holding the bow you might want to try something like a tall Yamaha drag.
I run a Mazco RE3 and despite looking like a chopper it is VERY predictable with its bow lifting and easy to drive.

Sounds like you are well on your way. I would also recommend some tall pitch...so you can also keep your motor in it's power band too. I would highly recommend a low rake cleaver in the 28-30" pitch range...you will love the difference at the wheel....keep us posted

I had a 30 chopper originally. I could have had a sandwich while waiting for it to plane. It would pile on the speed through the midrange, but was horrible to drive. I never saw top speed, 85 was at about 5800. I'll keep my eyes open for a cleaver. Not in the budget right now, but I'll definately want to at least try one next year!

Your running 4 % slip..... that 30 chopper is efficient....

That's on the speedo, can't guarantee that accuracy... Any calculations I've done with the 23 seem pretty good though right around 11-12 percent.

Hey are you running the nfb with 2 cables running into one helm? If you are i can save you some money, my cousin and i both ran dual cable nfb but the clutch inside the helm broke. I pulled his helm apart this summer and was able to remove the clutch system, it currently works without issue and steers much nicer at speed.

Here's a few pics. I already have all the parts I need, less cables, to convert to ride guide. But if you have a way of bastardizing this system that isn't too tough I'd definately like to hear it!

Take the steering wheel off to pull the rack out, then the four bolts closest to the dash get taken out. Inside there is 3 sets of 2 rollers that have plastic stops on them, take a pair of wire snips and cut them out, then reassemble. This is a very easy process, this was the first time ive taken it apart myself and had no problem with it.