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I added a stringer into the build and a layer of 12oz bi axial cloth so I could get away with using 1 piece of 1/2" marine ply instead of using a double layer of 1/2" plywood for the floor. The 1 layer of plywood eliminated extra weight and added material costs of 2 layers. It is much stronger than before. You might notice 2 copper bars epoxied and glassed in midway up the stringer. This is to allow me to drill and tap into to install the keel later on. In past they had cut an access hole in the floor so they could install the nuts and bolts for the keel. This created another problem of water getting into the floor.







The floor is all installed.



Ready to start working on the deck. More pics to follow in the coming weeks.
Everything always seems to take longer than expected to achieve a quality job.

Nice tidy well thought out job.
Still have a soft spot for J's, my first boat was a 16' 4 cyl I/O. Was a turd but I liked it.

Very nice work and good craftsmanship does take a bit more time but well worth it in the long run. The stringer down the centre is very interesting as well and a weight saver as well as you indicated.Keep those pictures coming.

Got the underside of the deck cleaned up and installed back on the hull. Glassed the transom and nose first to align it straight and let it cure. I screwed these wood blocks inside and out to sandwich the hull and deck together to make a nice flush tight fit. Then I glassed strips in between all the blocks. It fits perfect now compared to before. Then removed the blocks after a couple days once it cured. This week I have to add a full layer of glass around the perimeter - inside and out. Then making templates for the bulkheads and side panels.

Looking good!!!

Excellent, love the C clamps and ratchet straps to square everything back up, great idea, keep those pictures coming

Great job Doug. I bet it feels good to get the deck back on!!

yes sir, thanks....my shoulders are still burning from working upside down rolling out the glass around the perimeter but I am glad I removed the whole deck versus cutting it off at the motor well. It made it much easier to replace the floor and the transom with the deck out of the way and I have acquired a better fitting hull to deck joint that won't require a whole tube of caulking to fill the voids like it had from the factory.

Nice work you Guy's …Capping her or putting the rub rail back on ?

thanks Ken. Both. Capping the outer seam and still going to put the rub rail back on. It just helps for added protection.