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What kind of trailer to buy?

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 8:24 am   
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A couple of things to consider:

Powder coating does not adhere well to "black" cold rolled or hot rolled steel that most manufacturers use. It should be zinc coated steel or sand blasted to remove the black scale if you want the powder coating to adhere properly and last. The best exterior grade powder paints available on the market are only guaranteed for 5 years. Most mild steel painted trailers rust from the inside out. If the trailer will be stored outdoors consider going with aluminum or galvanized trailer to eliminate premature fading and rusting. Go with aluminum, plastic, or galvanized fenders. They take a beating from stone chips and anything painted will be rusting in no time.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1114

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 9:38 am   
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Dougw wrote:
A couple of things to consider:

Powder coating does not adhere well to "black" cold rolled or hot rolled steel that most manufacturers use. It should be zinc coated steel or sand blasted to remove the black scale if you want the powder coating to adhere properly and last. The best exterior grade powder paints available on the market are only guaranteed for 5 years. Most mild steel painted trailers rust from the inside out. If the trailer will be stored outdoors consider going with aluminum or galvanized trailer to eliminate premature fading and rusting. Go with aluminum, plastic, or galvanized fenders. They take a beating from stone chips and anything painted will be rusting in no time.

http://hpbc.ca/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1114


This is exactly where shoreland'r shines (pun intended)...they take great care to clean and treat ALL the steel parts before it hits their multi million dollar powder coating booth. They use a powder formula that stays soft to absorb impact from road debris....no big flakes from stone chips.

They also use a fully grounded wiring harness with waterproof connectors...and each light has a pigtail and connector so you can simply plug a new light in if you break one (no scotch locks or butt connectors). The harness grounds every light back to the harness NOT the frame.

The frames are also robot welded. All plastic parts molded in house. Stainless sleeves on axle where the hub seal rides. Stainless bearing buddies. Covered winch with integrated tongue jack (tongue jack bolts won't dig into your shin).

On and on....but they are expensive....but they are the best built trailer. If you want more info I have it lol. I've been to a bunch of the factories and I can tell you that shoreland'r's powder booth is larger than most "factories".

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 9:42 am   
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Oh...and disk brakes with a UFP actuator.

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 9:43 am   
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DoktorC wrote:
Dougw wrote:
A couple of things to consider:

Powder coating does not adhere well to "black" cold rolled or hot rolled steel that most manufacturers use. It should be zinc coated steel or sand blasted to remove the black scale if you want the powder coating to adhere properly and last. The best exterior grade powder paints available on the market are only guaranteed for 5 years. Most mild steel painted trailers rust from the inside out. If the trailer will be stored outdoors consider going with aluminum or galvanized trailer to eliminate premature fading and rusting. Go with aluminum, plastic, or galvanized fenders. They take a beating from stone chips and anything painted will be rusting in no time.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1114


This is exactly where shoreland'r shines (pun intended)...they take great care to clean and treat ALL the steel parts before it hits their multi million dollar powder coating booth. They use a powder formula that stays soft to absorb impact from road debris....no big flakes from stone chips.

They also use a fully grounded wiring harness with waterproof connectors...and each light has a pigtail and connector so you can simply plug a new light in if you break one (no scotch locks or butt connectors). The harness grounds every light back to the harness NOT the frame.

The frames are also robot welded. All plastic parts molded in house. Stainless sleeves on axle where the hub seal rides. Stainless bearing buddies. Covered winch with integrated tongue jack (tongue jack bolts won't dig into your shin).

On and on....but they are expensive....but they are the best built trailer. If you want more info I have it lol. I've been to a bunch of the factories and I can tell you that shoreland'r's powder booth is larger than most "factories".


Are you a supporting vendor? :lol:

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 9:49 am   
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LittleCharger wrote:
Are you a supporting vendor? :lol:


Nooo....but...I offer HPBC member discounts lol.

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 10:19 am   
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DoktorC wrote:
LittleCharger wrote:
Are you a supporting vendor? :lol:


Nooo....but...I offer HPBC member discounts lol.


BEST KINDA MEMBERS ! ;)

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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 9:26 pm   
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Doc, if you could PM a quote to me, that would be good.

Other Mr. Cole, what size of trailer would you need? I can e-mail Boat Trailer Direct and see if there is a twofor discount. Or maybe Doc has a discount for two:)

Disc brakes? My SS2000 trailer gets almost no road use, but it has disc brakes. Should I be doing any maintenance? It only gets about 10 miles per year and only gets wet twice a year.


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 PostPosted: February 23rd, 2016, 10:07 pm   
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David wrote:
Doc, if you could PM a quote to me, that would be good.

Other Mr. Cole, what size of trailer would you need? I can e-mail Boat Trailer Direct and see if there is a twofor discount. Or maybe Doc has a discount for two:)

Disc brakes? My SS2000 trailer gets almost no road use, but it has disc brakes. Should I be doing any maintenance? It only gets about 10 miles per year and only gets wet twice a year.


With such little use and them also getting wet do you notice rust or corrosion on the rotors? Curiosity question. If I had to guess you would need to grease up the pins on them similar to a passenger vehicle. Full disclosure - I do not have trailer brakes at all and thus shouldn't be commenting :) LOL

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 PostPosted: February 24th, 2016, 8:56 pm   
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No rust on the rotors and the brakes still work.


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 PostPosted: February 24th, 2016, 9:05 pm   
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David wrote:
No rust on the rotors and the brakes still work.



The best thing you can do for a trailer is use it. After its been in the lake take it for a bit of a drive before parking it for the summer/winter. That help dry everything out for storage.

I'll figure out what I have in stock and send you a PM.

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