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An idea I thought of was to get a strong 15 footer and shorten to 12 feet. I found a cheap 15 footer with transom problems. Would it be difficult to cut the boat down and instal a new and better transom? The Aussi boats are reworked and improved from the original boat. DOC we may finally have a Yamaha class! I will talk to Kevin at Waterford to see if he wants a welding job.
Because the car top models are so cheap. Less cost than the aluminium in them. Another option is to cut the seats out of the larger boat and weld in 3/4 of the smaller boat inside the larger hull. That will strengthen the boat.

I highly recommend the 25 on the 12' tin tippy , use a pfd. The 25 Merc on the 12' misty is crazy fun, it's a light weight.

Cut what, weld where???

I don't know why I just thought of the clowns (real clowns) that used to zip around in bathtubs with 20hp tillers hanging off the back at water ski show at the CNE over 25 years ago...

And even more surprisingly, my brain dug up remembering seeing legit (sans-clown) bathtub races :

https://www.google.ca/#tbm=vid&q=nanaimo+bathtub+race

12' shallow draft tin tippy with a Merc 18/20/25 with a chopper on it.....blocked up about 3".
Total hoot!!
Ran faster then on an 8' or 10' hydro!!
The biggest problem was explaining to the old man why his fishing boat had a split in the bottom and the middle seat was torn out of the side!!

When you look at the bottom of most car top models there are flat with no strakes. The inside of most hulls have ribs. One serious problem is these hulls flex and break. With the right selection for the large boat and the car top boat, you should be able to use the bottom and some of the side of the car top. You lay that portion inside the larger hull and weld it to the ribs of the larger hull. You now have a double hull which is much stronger and you did not add much if any weight since you removed the seats.
If you want to shorten a 15 to a 12, need to find a 15 ft where the hull is the same spec size for the last 3 ft and it should have the transom rap around strip. Some cutting to remove the last 3 ft, some drilling to remove some rivets and you should be able to make a new transom.
The Aussi hulls are modified for racing. For river racing they can get away with a smaller boat. I think we need a larger boat for the lake and as a turn or tow boat.

Did that, had to weld her up. Now better , stronger, faster . Still have to run with the drain plug out or she fills up over the transom even jacked .No quick turns or else. Only do it once a summer just because.

That seems like work, why not just lay in ribs or sheet AL where needed. Forgot about those CNE clowns.

Yes there are other ways to strengthen the boat. Here are some advantages for the double hull.
Most of the cheap boats are tired, leak, have poor transoms and are weak in the last 3 ft because that is the area on the bottom that gets punished.
Reason enough to start with a 15 and cut it down to 12 ft.
Why use a second hull as an insert?
That insert hull is form shaped and has ribs . Plus you could use foam between the two hulls.
It is a one piece unit. When complete the inside will not look like a patch work.
I think the cost for the insert hull would be $300.00.
Racers like projects and like to be different.
I have NO experience with these hulls so I could be out of touch.

So...isn't this pretty similar to like C runabout...but aluminum?

No these look like a fishing boat. I made an offer on a WC model 12 foot Lund. It weighs 205 lbs. It looks strong enough without any mods. If I don't get it, I will keep looking for a similar boat. I have some motors to try. Buying at the right price means I can sell it at the same price if it doesn't pan out. My dream would be to run a new 30 Tohatsu on it and have it run 45 mph. This class is perfect for getting the new motors racing. It can be a good novice class for teens and very affordable running an older 2 stroke.

http://www.lundboats.com/boat-series/wc/

This West Coast CANADIAN boat company make some excellent strong hull
LOOK AT THESE!
http://www.wolfboats.com/open.php