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How do I setup a water pressure gauge? Temp gauge?

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 3:20 pm   
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Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario
So, I'm building a Charger and I got a new set of Teleflex Sterling gauges. Included is a water pressure gauge. I bought 25' of speedo pitot tubing thinking I would need it for the install.

Is it true that I just put a " T " fitting in the pisser? I'm installing an '89 150 Johnson 150 VRO.

So, what's the deal? How do I get this done?

Also, I have a temp gauge to install. Same boat, same engine. Teleflex sterling. Wiring? Temp sensor? Would this engine have a temp sensor? If so where? Where can I get a temp sensor?

Thanks
Billy

Here's a shot of the old girl.
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Last edited by Chargerwilly on January 28th, 2014, 7:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 3:35 pm   
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I believe you can put a T in the pisser line but you must have the stock pisser end in place as a restriction. I would think there would be a spot to tap into it elsewhere too. I know the Yamaha and Merc both have spots in the top of the block for both temp senders and w/p fittings.

Usually you need a temp sender to go with the guage.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 4:08 pm   
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Great. Thanks Dok.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 4:35 pm   
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Why not drill the top of the block or head and tap with 1/8"NPT to install a secure proper fitting for temp and pressure.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 4:55 pm   
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Jeff Yammer wrote:
Why not drill the top of the block or head and tap with 1/8"NPT to install a secure proper fitting for temp and pressure.


Is there a boss there to drill into? NPT can be tough with no meat and no clearance to get to the right thread taper. I'm not good with OMC but I know it would be tough on a yamaha if those bosses weren't there.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 5:02 pm   
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I've done it before ... there's more then enough meat there. When drilled with the correct bit and tapped with a non-Princess Auto quality tap its fine.
But that's only my opinion

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 5:14 pm   
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Jeff Yammer wrote:
I've done it before ... there's more then enough meat there. When drilled with the correct bit and tapped with a non-Princess Auto quality tap its fine.
But that's only my opinion


Cool...good info. I had something similar on my PWC and ended up having to cut the tap so it would plunge deep enough so the threads would bind on the NPT...otherwise the fitting screwed in too far.

Having a real fitting in the block is a far more reliable way to go.

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 5:20 pm   
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Theres a tapped hole on the exshast plate were the powerhead bolts to for the psi just have to remove the allenhead cap screw from it and put 90 degree psi fitting there!. no need to drill or tap anything

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 PostPosted: January 22nd, 2014, 5:36 pm   
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Awesome info. Thanks for the support. Does anyone have a manual kickin around for one of these? 1989 Johnson 150 VRO.

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 PostPosted: January 23rd, 2014, 10:35 pm   
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mine is a 2001 - 3.1 OMC. the pressure connection is on the driver side at the bottom. There is a 90 degree fitting down there. Hard to get at without taking the pan off. Luckily the pan is a 2 piece, so it comes off easily.
I have 2 temp gages. 1 for each bank of cylinders. Each head has a tapped spot for the sender. at the top near the T-stats.


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