HPBCANADA.COM

i like where this is going

Another question and answer
Question: Wouldn't running the 23 pitch hurt performance in the rougher conditions?

Answer: It is a decision you would make based on the competition and your driving ability. There is no question that the 22 in the example work react quicker than the 23. With the 22 even with a good start your 65 to 66 mph speed may not be good enough to hold off the TOP competition. A good start with the 23 and 67 to 68 speed will hold them off. Now what if you don't get a good start. Now your in the pack. Chances are most if not all of those boats are running 62 to 65. How do you pass them if your running 65 or 66? If your have the driving skill you can run a wide arch in the turns and take advantage of the larger prop. IF YOU CONTINUALLY FOLLOW THE SAME LINE AS THE BOAT AHEAD OF YOU, YOU WILL STAY IN THE SAME POSITION OR GET PASSED BY THE BOAT BEHIND YOU! The larger wheel allows you to take the risk and pass on the outside.

Another question and answer
Do I need two power heads? One as a spare and one to race?

I depends on your budget. You do need two props. One for every day use and one to race with. The motor will last several years after a proper rebuild and good maintenance. You don't need a acceleration prop for everyday running. Get a nice cruise prop and save your race prop. Props wear out believe it or not. The flexing does change them. Some get slower and some actually get faster during the process. In the end they get slower. Some racers use a top end prop for the lake. At normally speeds they work well and are better on fuel. IF? you can afford a back up complete power head spare. Make it the same as you other motor. At the race if you have a problem, just switch complete power heads and race. Then there is no time wasted trouble shooting at the races where you could make a costly mistake that costs you more money than it should have to fix.

Another question and answer
I like to build my own motors to save money. Any advice?

I know what your talking about. I do the same thing. I also don't want to rush doing it and I spend hours checking and measuring parts. You need to know your skill level and by doing a lot of the work yourself saves money and allows you to spend the extra money elsewhere. In my case, I never hone a cylinder on a used block. I will always bore the cylinder to make it perfectly round and straight. I prefer to buy used power head that is still assembled. Then I check every spec and find out why it failed. I decide if I am going to use all or part of it. I have never used a single power head for all its parts. I always find things I don't like and will not use. That comes from experiece and patience. I like new parts, but I must admit some of the China made stuff is junk and I now search ebay for NOS parts with the part numbers I want. I have a lot of patience and I will keep a power head unassembled until I have everything the way I want it. I will have several on the go all the time. If it is an SST 60 number one power head. I do the initial assemble and have a second person check my work.
So do what you do well and let the pros do the other part of the build. Use good parts. Follow all of the torgue specs. Don't forget the easy stuff before you run it. Clean carbs, fresh fuel pump, new impeller, fresh gear oil, proper mixture and fresh SHELL fuel, larger jets,and don't rush!

Lesson #12 Gear ratios, prop diameter and pitch

In the rules it states you can run any gear ratio. This means any gear ratio that you can buy as a stock part. You CANNOT use custom made gears. Remember the T rules are based on the Yamaha. It has two options 1:71 and 1:84. That is why there is a rule. There is little difference in the two and zero advantage. The 1:84 would get you off the dock faster with a Lemans start. With the clock start the difference is 1 or 2 inches in pitch when running a 1:84.
Now for you OMC nitro guys, you have yet another legal option.
Instead of the 1:76 gears. You could try the STOCK 50-60 hp 2 cylinder gears which are in the 2.4 range. BIG DIFFERENCE!
Would they work better in the rough water? Now you can run 25 or 26 pitch and larger diameter. More torgue out of the corners.
Larger slower rotating props are more efficient. Less slip more bite.
You want to be different try it!

Difficult to believe, but you can still buy New Old Stock 1986 complete 56 cubic inch coarse spline power heads. It was the only year they were made. A T guy should check to see how many there are available. Package price for all of them! T group purchase! They are still there because very few people would want one and no one would pay that price. Here is a link for the part.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/brp/B-0394465.html

Another question and answer
Question: Is it true that your the only Canadian Boat Racers to have won a world title?

No, we are not. Canadians do very well in Jet Boat and have won many different titles in that class. Jim is the only Canadian ever to win a Worlds title in any OPC class. We won the last SST 60 Worlds in 2008.
Here is the link
http://www.uimpowerboating.com/vsite/vc ... em,00.html

I can sell you guys a brand new 50hp 15inch TLDI tohatsu for another couple hundred bucks more than that price.

Another Question and answer
Fantastic info. If we use the SST head or machine our stock heads to the 28.5cc mark shouldn't we de doing something with the timing ?? These fishing motors seem to be 19deg btdc stock is there any recomendations so when someone does the head work there isn't a melt down on the first run, or doesn't the increase in compression play into this ?

We left the timing stock at 18 to 19 dtdc. You need to run Shell premium 91 at 25 to 32 to 1 mix. You will not have a problem. If you run Boyensen reeds you should try a 66 to 68 main jet first. The 64 may work fine, but best to be safe than sorry. Some of these 56rs really like a lot of fuel. You can use either oil based or symthetic outboard oil. You don't need to go to 28.5 cc. You could run a 30 cc head. I found little if any difference in performance between 150 and 160.

Another Question and answer
About the 56 motor hint and the exhaust flow, what are you talking about?

The porting is different on the last version of the 56 fishing motor. It is a non bridge port motor. In simple terms this means that unlike the other blocks this block does not have a solid bar in the middle of the exhaust port. This bar or bridge is there to carry the ring over the port. When the exhaust gas exits the cylinder the gas goes to the middle of the port. The bridge disrupts and alters the flow and this causes a lost in performance. The trade off is you can have a larger total port size with the bridge. Would this block make a better T motor?? Think of this fact. That model made 70 hp with the small bore carbs that made 60 hp on the early model. That is 10 hp more. Now you put the larger carbs, a light 70s cast crank, 73 flywheel, a 30 to 28.5 head and provided the port size can handle the extra flow, you would have the best motor.