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T School Winter of 2012 - 2013

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 PostPosted: September 28th, 2012, 8:17 am   
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Have any of the T racers tried an Ezy Glide Stick Boat Steering system?

I had to do a search on the net to find out what you are talking about.
For others like me here is a link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Ezy-Glide-St ... 119wt_1129

It is an interesting idea for sure. I don't think it would feel comfortable since the T racers sit in a seat. I know there was a least one CBF racer who drove the boat with stick steering. That was Paul Brafield in the late 50's. He always drove his 48 cubic inch hydro with stick steering. I think for a SO outbard racer it would depend on how fast a steering ratio it is. It would sure look different. Thanks for asking the question.


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 PostPosted: September 28th, 2012, 4:14 pm   
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I noticed in the pdf of the SST 60 specs a picture and a rule where you can grind a GLUE LINE? In the block inside the port. What is that about?
We previously talked about the different types blocks used in making the 56 OMC power heads. The early ones were called production cast [some refer to those as sand cast]. Those blocks were slow to make, so OMC changed the casting method to increase production. The newer blocks are foam cast. The mold is glued together and there is a seam in the mold at that spot. The seam could be varied in size and the difference resulted in some blocks being better than others. The original SST 60 rule did not allow you to modify it. The rule was added to remove the advantage that some blocks had over others. This modification made ALL the blocks better and made them all the same.


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 PostPosted: October 2nd, 2012, 3:01 pm   
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Are there other T boats with an open style other that the Delta and VooDoo? I really like the Critchfield, but, would prefer 2 seats side by side.

Yes, both Marty Brodeur and Rapid Craft made an open style model. The same hull, just a different deck. Larry Everritt had a red Marty Brodeur open boat with a 56 short on it. Jordon likely knows if Larry still has it. Maybe it could be purchased? Nice looking boat. Check with TOP GUN he may have this mold.
As for the Rapid Craft, the open version was called the River Racer. Very smart looking.
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread. ... iver-racer


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 PostPosted: October 2nd, 2012, 3:19 pm   
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Hounddog wrote:
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There have been several T Boats for sale. If You were buying what would you buy?

I think the package deals Craig Ferriers, Scott Whittingtons and Ryley's were all good buys.
I believe Craig Fraser is also pleased with Gigs boat. What I would buy? Well I did buy the Critchfield from Top Gun, but only as a project boat. OK, as a T850 boat. I would buy Chris Gordon's Rapid Craft. If that boat is the same and in the same condition as my Rapid Craft, it could be the best T boat ever. Here I go giving away secrets. That hull is all composite, it weights approximately 230 lbs. with the cell in it. It is built by a boat builder and is very well made. It even has forward inner walls covering the weak spots in the Critchfield hull design. The bottom is very good with little or no hook. Scott Whittington's boat was not a Rapid Craft and it weighted over 900 lbs. The boat still ran 67 mph and was competitive at that weight. What you do is cut the top off the cell, cut out the back board and rear cowl off completely.
There is a perfect line from the dash to the rear. With that off use a Critchfield rear cowl.
If you make the hump on the Critchfield cowl higher. The boat looks a lot like a small mid 90's 20 ft Allison.


<<<<SEE THE PICTURE OF THE RIVER RACER IN THE POST ABOVE>>>>


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 PostPosted: October 3rd, 2012, 9:04 am   
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What is the difference in the 70 hp Yamaha 2 stroke powerheads from the 1984 to the 2010 models? Are the parts changeable?

The basic powerhead is the same. Same crank, rods, pistons, head and the porting. So unlike the OMC 56 there is no difference in the basic components. IF? your buying a used long or short block. Best to get a commercial [C] version. They didn't have oil injection and the crank has a better chance of being good. There are 2 different blocks. The later ones have extra mounting blocks for the newer electrics where the coils mount on the blocks. USE THE OLDER 1984 to 1990 system! The new ones have a rev limiter. On the old ones you just unplug the grey wire at the CDI box.
The later models have primer style carbs. They are the same size, but I don't know if they have improved flow over the older carbs. The difference is no choke butterfly. You cannot deck the head to get even close to 160 lbs. There is not enough metal. You can search for a CES head which gets you to 145 to 150. DOC has run both and can tell you what the difference is. DON'T keep away from a 60C model. The 60 hp is EXACTLY the same. When Yamaha originally sold both the 60 and 70 models the customer paid over $2000.00 more for the 70 model. The 60 was a much better and longer lasting motor. The difference..the 60C was non oil injected, the jetting and the reed stops are different [they turn in at the top, so the reed cannot open as wide] and it has 2 degrees less timing. Less than 2 hours to change and you get 10 hp.


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 PostPosted: October 3rd, 2012, 9:53 am   
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Is there anything I can do so I can shift the motor while it is running rather than stop-shift-restart? The kids really have a problem docking and it would be nice to have this option even if it is not used all the time.

It is possible. The first problem is the idle RPM of the powerhead. If it is 950 rpm and up, I would not do it. But, if for example you run an OMC 56 finishing motor with the head change and only slightly larger jets, these motors most times idle at low RPM even nicer than a stock one. I would do one other adjustment. On most motors they have the carb throttle roller touching the throttle cam. Use the screw stop[s] on the carbs to set the idle speed and back that cam off so the roller is not touching it. This gives the motor a longer delay before the throttle reacts. You have a longer distance in the shift and you don't bang the motor into gear. Simple adjustment that can add extra life to any gearcase.

THIS IS ONLY A MINOR ADJUSTMENT. MAKE SURE YOU STILL HAVE FULL THROTTLE!


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 PostPosted: October 4th, 2012, 9:13 am   
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Lesson#18 Where to spend your money

Most racers have a limited budget and cannot afford to buy everything at the same time. Whenever you buy something you need to remember that at some point you will be selling the item. Race equipment has two levels. People will spend a lot of money to buy a winning boat. If your one of those buyers, buy the boat right at the race with all the good parts. The other end of the scale is CHEAP! You can lose a lot of money on race equipment. NEW is always new. USED can vary from barely used to junk.
So with the above said, what order do you spend the money if you have limited funds?

Number one
THE MOTOR! Short shaft models are holding their value very well. It is supply and demand. The market is small, but there are very few motors available.
THE MOST IMPORTANT PART! The gear case. If you get a used gear case, take it apart before you run it. The parts are costly to replace if you destroy it. Most times replacing the seals, shift dog and maybe the carrier make it as good as new.
As for the power head, there are a lot of good used ones that can be rebuilt.

The Boat
You can get a handymans opportunity for a few hundred dollars. You can normally resell them for the same or more than you paid. Then get a newer boat and you have a good motor for the newer boat.

WHAT SORT OF DOLLARS HAVE T850 RACERS IN THEIR BOATS AND EQUIPMENT?
If you had top equipment...$10,000.00
Most $6000.00 to $7000.00

TO HAVE A STARTER T850
$2500. to $4000.00

IS THERE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN PERFORMANCE?
YES!!
The big dollars are spend getting the last 2 to 3 mph.


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 PostPosted: October 4th, 2012, 7:32 pm   
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Is there a class similar to T Class only using a tunnel hull?

YES, it is called Thunder Cat and there is a lot of information on this site. If your thinking a single seat tunnel similar to a Sport C, SST 45 or SST 60 type class then the answer is NO. On a different site, I tried a number of times to see if there was interest. I never could get anyone to step up and promote a tunnel class. Would I like to see one? YES I WOULD! I always thought a tunnel class similar to the APBA FAT C which runs our T750 class motors on non celled 12 to 13 foot tunnels would be a good class to race and a great class to watch. We currently do not have time in our race program to promote another class. T class will be very large in 2013 and we need to organize the T group at the races to get thru our part of the program with no delays.


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 PostPosted: October 4th, 2012, 7:47 pm   
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I spoke to the owner of the orange Delta Stinger. He wants $4000.00 not $3500.00 as you posted. The boat runs 72 mph on GPS.

I never spoke to the owner. Dave Alford provided the information and the price. So that is a communication issue between them. As for the speed, I have no comment. I don't know the owner, nor have I ever seen the boat run to get a GPS reading. The sell price is the key number. It is the price someone will pay to buy the boat and the price the seller is willing to sell the boat for. Go and see the boat. If you like it. Make an offer.


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 PostPosted: October 4th, 2012, 8:10 pm   
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Here is an old post from another site. It is a 2010 post. We were looking at different combinations.

Top Sport T-850 Combinations
All the boats are light weight competition models. Hull weight between 220 and 240 lbs.
Motors are race prep taking advantage of every legal alteration.
Drivers are experienced, knowledgeable and very competitive.
Comp VooDoo, Critchfields, Rapid Crafts, Comp Allison, Delta and Oasis boats.
Motors are the performance models. All short shaft 15 inch models with small gear cases
OMC, Mercury 650XS and Yamaha 70CES
Motors will turn 6700 to 7800 rpm.
Straightaway speeds of 68 to 72 mph.

Top Family T-850 Combinations
All the boats are production models or the larger 15 foot models. Hull weight is 250 to 300 lbs.
Motors are not tuned to the same high competitive standard. Short shaft and long shaft models. Small and big gear cases
Many boats are cottage boats altered to a raceboat set-up. They are a dual purpose boat.
Drivers are both experienced and beginners.
Production hulls VooDoo, Checkmate, Baja, Kennedy, and Laser
Motors are fishing model powerheads Yamaha, OMC and Mercury
Motors will turn 5900 to 6500 rpm
Straightaway speed 61 to 64 mph.

Top Sport T-750 Combinations
These are the competition model boats with a total weight, boat, motor and driver of 600 lbs.
Motors are Yamaha, Nissan/Tohatsu and OMC for sure. Maybe Mariner and other brands as well.
All short shaft models
This is a new class for us next year. Based on similar classes running in the US and Europe we will see speeds in the 55 to 60 mph range.

Top Family T-750 Combinations
These are the production model dual purpose boats. Because of the lighter motors and the ability to strip out the interior etc. These boats will weigh close to the 600 lb weight as well.
We know that a normal production VooDoo 50 hp Yamaha runs close to 50 mph out of the box.
Take some weight out of the boat, add a set-back and a good race prop and the boat will run 53 to 57 mph.

You only need to be the top boat in your group. Even with super equipment it is very difficult to run with the top experienced racers. Driving is the major factor in this class. You have to get around the race course. The rough water conditions after the 2 lap is a real equalizer in top speed. Handling takes over after that. The record around the course is only a 60 mph average. Top Gun 1991 Dunnville 59.8 / Todd Clark 1992 Dunnville 59.4
That seems easy until you try it. Top speed is not going to win. Acceleration and handling does. Most of the stock fishing motors provide more than enough power. Spend your money on the boat, the set-up and prop.

OUR NEXT SEASON IS 2013....3 YEARS LATER....EVERYTHING SAID ABOVE IS STILL ACCURATE!


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