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SST 60 tachometer harness?

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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 4:53 pm   
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So we picked up an sst 60, I just finished doing the trim installation. We also found a way to use our existing dual cable steering that was in the boat.
Now Im pretty much ready to install the motor on the boat and had a question about a plug that isnt used right now. Its by where the main harness plugs in, looks like it could be for a tachometer harness based on the gray wires. Would this be for the tachometer or am i okay to use the existing plug on my control box?
Image

Heres the motor
Image

There are a few other questions i had as well.
The fuel/oil mix ratio is 32:1 on the these sst 60's right? I know it needs premium fuel, any suggestions on whos oil to run?
The next is what should i be looking for max rpm at WOT? 7000-7500?


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 5:30 pm   
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The harness will be fine. They are the tach wires. The head appears to be white under the black. A pure SST 60 motor has 180 lbs compression. 32 to one is fine, some run 25 to one. The more oil the leaner the mix (less gas). A good oil is fine. It has to run over 7500 rpm to take advantage of the porting. A good one will run over 8000. They are a very good motor for every day use. The motor loves fuel. 73D jets and you are safe. We only got 10 hours running time out of the race motors before Pistons needed replacing. The damage was caused mostly by the Lemans starts. We had to prime the motors 30 seconds before the start and then used 24 volts to start it. For the initial start the extra fuel caused the compression to be over 225 lbs and that hurt the Pistons. We have run SST 60 powerheads on T boats. I tell the owners to crank the motor first then hit the prime. That solved the problem. I suggest you run a small prop and find out the rpm the motor wants to turn. Some very strong 60 motors turn 7700 while other like to run over 8000.


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 5:49 pm   
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So the plug that is on the motor that i showed is for the tach harness, In which case i would need to run the gray wire up to the tach? The rest of the tach harness from the control box should still function for 12v power and ground, correct?
Ive got a new 24 cleaver i just got, and thats the only prop ive got that will fit this thing lol.
Thank you for the infon, all very important things to know. I was not aware of the crank first before priming with the key trick haha.

Edit.
Just checked the harness on the control box side and the motor side, they are box the same end. Both ends are the female rubber plugs with the prongs sticking out. The control box side is male plug with holes for the prong


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 6:30 pm   
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The control box that came with this harness had the tach wires come out the front of the box. The normal connections on the motor are the same. You will find 24 pitch too much. On a V hull most run under 12 inch diameter and 21 to 23 pitch provided it is a Titus prop. A full blade Merlin prop would be Less pitch. You should be able to rework your prop to work. See if you can try some other props first. Try any prop and don't go by the prop spec. What doesn't work on one boat will perform differently on another. Run an electric fuel pump 4 to 5 lbs.


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 6:52 pm   
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The control box i am using is from a 1996 225hp venom. The tach harness for it plugs into the back under the key. The main harness for it does not have the plug to go into the black/gray/tan plug on the motor side. What should I be doing in your opinion? Do i need a new harness for the control box side?

Edit: Ive got another omc harness, same deal as my venom harness so no plug on the motor side for the tach harness. Should I make a harness to run from the plug on the motor up too the tach?


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm   
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Wow that is a great looking engine, looks like brand spanking new.

have you made sure its had the cooling mods as per service bulletins ?
i.e tell tale moved to the top of block , and newer side exhaust cover and gasket .
and inside the exhaust cover drilled into the water jacket .

these were all bulletins to be done on the 56 blocks from 1986 onwards inc the sst60.

is this an early version or the later version sst60 ? .

certainly a very nice looking engine.


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 7:06 pm   
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Thank you, it is pretty clean little motor. The tell tale is from the top of the block, I have not opened it up to find out if the is drilled or not. Not sure how to tell the difference between an early and late one. Any indicators?


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 8:16 pm   
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im not too sure what the outside difference would be, if any.

will be nice to see some video of this engine going once your on the water.


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 PostPosted: September 7th, 2016, 9:55 pm   
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Hounddog wrote:
The control box that came with this harness had the tach wires come out the front of the box. The normal connections on the motor are the same. You will find 24 pitch too much. On a V hull most run under 12 inch diameter and 21 to 23 pitch provided it is a Titus prop. A full blade Merlin prop would be Less pitch. You should be able to rework your prop to work. See if you can try some other props first. Try any prop and don't go by the prop spec. What doesn't work on one boat will perform differently on another. Run an electric fuel pump 4 to 5 lbs.

You were 100% correct with the harness. It looks like the tach wire is in the main harness like my control box is. Are the second set of wires for if your using a billet shifter or similar thats not an omc box?
The jets are 73D as well, so looks like im okay there. Which type of electric pump should i be running? Ive got one kicking around, i think its an equivelent to a holley red as it came off a v6 merc


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 PostPosted: September 8th, 2016, 8:34 am   
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The SST60 did not come with a control box. It came with a switch plate. The red plug OMC harness and box is fine. You may need a regulator with that pump. You only want 4 to 5 pounds pressure.


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