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Project- 85 MPH Challenger

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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 8:45 am   
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I'm trying to recall the on trailer shots of your hull! I'm thinking your pad ran all the way to the transom "no notch" ! has there been any enlightenment or discussion about notch advantage/disadvantage!


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 9:08 am   
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A notch would allow me to reduce my setback and almost works a trim tab.... I am not doing one.


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 10:01 am   
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Would adding say a 4" notch essentially reduce your setback by the same 4" thus reducing the stress (leverage) on your transom when running in the rougher water? For instance, if you had a 4" notch - instead of running 12" of setback you would only have to run 8" of setback to equal the same weight load on the pad running surface?

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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 10:53 am   
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Ask Reggie,

HULL DESIGN
With the introduction of our Super Ventilated Positive Lift running surface there isn't a V-bottom pleasure boat on the water that can keep pace with a Fountain. Competitors have tried to copy our designs, but failed because they lack the racing know-how and years of experience and dedication to R&D to make it work.

The speedometer doesn't lie. Across the board, our boats are 10 to 20 percent faster with better handling and a smoother, safer ride than rivals. The deadrise and longitudinal angles of the running surface must be perfectly matched to the steps to create the proper angle of attack and to help aerate the bottom.

Additionally, Fountain pioneered the notched transom and pad keel, which allows elevated drive heights without sacrificing control, low-end torque or midrange pulling power. Our notched transom design also provides more trim leverage, which allows you to dial in the optimum ride at any given speed for maximum efficiency and comfort.

At Fountain, we spend painstaking hours fine-tuning the weight placement of all our boats for optimum performance. A well designed, properly balanced hull requires less horsepower to propel it through the water and, whether you're running 35 or 95 mph, there's less demand on the drivetrain, which is one reason why maintenance is lower in a Fountain.

Finally, a properly setup boat distributes the G-forces where they can be handled best, placing less strain on any specific area of the boat and, subsequently, the occupants inside. Ask anyone, driving a Fountain is a positively uplifting experience.


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Triad V21 - 300xs
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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 11:19 am   
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Dougw wrote:
Would adding say a 4" notch essentially reduce your setback by the same 4" thus reducing the stress (leverage) on your transom when running in the rougher water? For instance, if you had a 4" notch - instead of running 12" of setback you would only have to run 8" of setback to equal the same weight load on the pad running surface?



there are a few challengers in the states that the owners have added a notch... and according to them it changed there world.... for instance.... one was 8" of setback and got a 6 inch notch... now he has the equivalent of 14" of setback.

i have my own set of jamescole believes... and i think a longer hall is faster.... and the guys who put a notch in there boats didnt try 22" of set back... the stress on my transom was there and clearly had an effect..... after my build it will be ready to go with the 22' of setback.

i have a slight felling that with the wider pad it might ask for less setback with my bow lifting props...... so if that's the case i'm going to try 4 blade cleavers and pro ET's ...


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 4:59 pm   
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OneCycle wrote:
Dougw wrote:
Would adding say a 4" notch essentially reduce your setback by the same 4" thus reducing the stress (leverage) on your transom when running in the rougher water? For instance, if you had a 4" notch - instead of running 12" of setback you would only have to run 8" of setback to equal the same weight load on the pad running surface?



there are a few challengers in the states that the owners have added a notch... and according to them it changed there world.... for instance.... one was 8" of setback and got a 6 inch notch... now he has the equivalent of 14" of setback.

i have my own set of jamescole believes... and i think a longer hall is faster.... and the guys who put a notch in there boats didnt try 22" of set back... the stress on my transom was there and clearly had an effect..... after my build it will be ready to go with the 22' of setback.

i have a slight felling that with the wider pad it might ask for less setback with my bow lifting props...... so if that's the case i'm going to try 4 blade cleavers and pro ET's ...
The advantage of reduced setback is better longitudinal balance meaning the boat will fly flat and not come down sternfirst and cause tripping!I see this project as a topend game and no concern with rough water handling! James you hit my thoughts exactly about the longer running surface, I'm thinking with the heavier new motors the notch is not good for someone shooting for top end numbers!I'm not sure how the wider pad will effect setback needs, other than it carries the boat higher and stays on top better over small chop,maybe allowing increased speeds!if the hull is making a smaller hole in the water the prop doesn't need to be back as far to get good bite! We'll see how this all works out! The best part as you mentioned is I get the knowledge benefit of your venture and BCB will have experience with the build Hrs. and materials!


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 5:40 pm   
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working with your thought process of the full length pad is better than a notch....would there be any advantage of extending the pad an inch or more beyond the transom? perhaps a bracket attached to the transom like a "mini" trim tab to extend your pad running surface? The "bracket" could even be adjustable ( manually) to provide a few degrees angle up or down to provide more or less natural bow lift?

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Triad V21 - 300xs
19' J-craft - 175 opti
18' Pontoon - 115 opti
12' tinny - 9.9 merc


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 10:10 pm   
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Dougw wrote:
working with your thought process of the full length pad is better than a notch....would there be any advantage of extending the pad an inch or more beyond the transom? perhaps a bracket attached to the transom like a "mini" trim tab to extend your pad running surface? The "bracket" could even be adjustable ( manually) to provide a few degrees angle up or down to provide more or less natural bow lift?

It "is" used on some V hulls! The large cats use a tunnel tab to help pack air in the tunnel and assist with launch attitude,we used one on the 24 skater, I was scared to death of that thing when I put in on the boat, thinking this things gonna kill me! I installed the tab control and indicator where I could reach and see it from the driver position,some of my throttle men had :twisted: attitudes! :lol:


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 10:20 pm   
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Let me get this straight James..... A couple years ago you were running a hydrostream. You sold it because the water you run was too rough for it. So then.... You go out and buy what is arguably the greatest v-bottom design of all time. You set it up for pure top speed, which then sacrifices what it's original intention was. Now... You decide that you can further improve on a design by a man who is widely accepted as one of the GREATEST designers of all time. My opinion does not matter... But I personally feel that if you want to do this... Do it to a random, cheap challenger pop. One that has less core in the hull and is lighter. James... Your boat is beautiful. It is in absolutely incredible shape. And it's a real challenger. Cut a foot of setback off of it and blueprint the pad... And go looking for white caps... That is where the boat is at home. Then go mess around with your hydrostream and set the thing for kill.

Or better yet..... If you want a Tuff. Get mark to price a complete bare bones base tuff hull. That is way cooler than a "improved" challenger.

I think what I am saying is please take Negative Rick's advice... Work with what is already there (clean and straighten the little pad) I also fear that if you don't you are throwing resale out the window.

I have worked in the powersports world for years... And I am all for the DIY engineering projects... Wait a second. No I'm not. lol.

Please know that I am looking out for Jamescole's best interests. Because I love you.


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 PostPosted: December 5th, 2012, 10:38 pm   
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mitchie wrote:

Or better yet..... If you want a Tuff. Get mark to price a complete bare bones base tuff hull.


Tried that ... he doesnt want to sell an unfinished product.. and i get it.. when your name and creditability is on the line you just dont let a back yard wannabe mechanic build your pride and joy from the shell out.



trust me i get what your saying..... and i get what Rick is saying...... but its too late it will be ready Thursday and when i make a decision i'm all in.... so we are just going to have to see what it does .....

i love my boat and it will be twice the boat it was last year and last year it was/is the nicest challenger i have ever seen..... EVER.. not to brag but.... jamescole.


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