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T School Winter of 2012 - 2013

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 PostPosted: October 11th, 2012, 10:19 am   
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I noticed in the T class rules there are both minimum and maximum sizes for the boats in each class. The maximum size for T750 is 14 feet long and for T850 it is 15 feet. I have never seen that rule in other APBA OPC or SO classes. Why is your class different?
First of all, the minimum size is the same for both T750 and T850. This allows you to move up or down and still use the same boat. The maximum sizes are there to control the size of the hole the boat makes in the water. The larger the boat, the larger the hole the boat leaves in the corners. One rule that helped killed the FV Class in APBA was allowing a 20 foot hull to race with a 13 foot hull. The 13 foot hulls [which where are original hulls for the class,] could not compete due to the water conditions caused by the larger boats. It was unsafe for them to race! So all those boats stopped racing and the boat count dropped. I like the rule.


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 PostPosted: October 17th, 2012, 3:17 pm   
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Lesson #19 How much set back can I run?
We are seeing racers run way more set back than in the past!
We have touched on this topic before and in the last few weeks some racers have taken this to a new limit. We have boats racing very competitive with "0" set back. We were seeing 1 to 2 inch to get more negative trim when running the Yamaharude trim systems. Some including Larry and LC were running 4 to 6 inch manual adjustable set backs. Now people are incorporating SST 60 style trim systems into custom set backs. The longer over 5 inches set backs seem to work very well especially with the heavier drivers. To set the mile record Joe ran a 12 inch on his Allison. We have not got that far yet and I want to caution racers that extreme set back will work on a straightaway. The problem is the corners. The water can catch on the plate in the turn and the stern will drag as you slow and go thru the corner. It will not help you coming out of the corner.
The more set back, the less trim you need. If your running big set back, you may not even need power trim. Also, the stern and the motor will be very low when the boat is in the water without the driver. You are adding a lot of stern weight. Some people such as Chris Gordon have to hang weight on the bow hook to offset the stern weight of his SST 90 motor.
REMEMBER MAKE THESE CHANGES IN SLOW STAGES & TESTING AS YOU GO!


Last edited by Hounddog on October 18th, 2012, 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 PostPosted: October 17th, 2012, 9:49 pm   
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I noticed on the European T750's and especially the smaller T classes like GT30 that the boats have extreme set backs built right into the boat design. Would not the same idea work with the T850's?

We do not have one of their boats over here to test and compare. However, if you look at their T850 hulls, those hulls do not have the built-in set backs. My guess is that design is there to help lift and carry the nose. When you run low horsepower and small props on high transoms it is difficult to carry the nose without burying the prop in the water which would hurt performance. By moving the weight out, the actual weight of the motor itself will lift the nose. This as also the reason why even the small classes blow over. Their boats run super light in the nose and changes in the wind pressure cause the blow over.
Good question you should be racing!


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 PostPosted: October 18th, 2012, 8:03 am   
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I switched the powerhead and the tuner in my 15 OMC to run a 56 cubic inch motor. Now my water pump is melting.

It could be caused by three reasons. One your running the long 56 tuner without the inner exhaust cover. Two your running dry exhaust. Three and likely the reason. The water pump is not getting enough water. Check the condition of the impeller. When they over heat pieces come off the impeller and plug the water tube to the powerhead. If that happens you have a major problem. Some of the original style water pumps had a metal top and were a bit smaller. I would solve this problem before you run the boat again. You need to find out if the heat is coming from the outside and blowing on the pump or the heat is generated from the inside of the pump or maybe from the water tube right at the top of the pump. If your not sure, take it to a dealer. Just as another thought. Is it an OEM pump?

UP-DATE 10 AM. Thursday Oct. 18th.
Hounddog your the man! I checked the impeller and it was 3/4s gone. There was a lot of pieces in the pump. The impeller had pushed up and metal inner sleeve of the impeller was rubbing on the inside metal case of the pump.


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 PostPosted: October 18th, 2012, 12:32 pm   
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Can T Boats run in DRAG?

They have not run there yet. I recall Drag had a minimum boat length rule of 15 feet. That would only allow a large T850 boat in and we don't have any 15 footers racing in T. I am sure the Drag group would look into having a T type class if there was interest and above all COMMITTMENT.


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 PostPosted: October 18th, 2012, 12:46 pm   
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Hounddog wrote:
Question and answer
Can T Boats run in DRAG?

They have not run there yet. I recall Drag had a minimum boat length rule of 15 feet. That would only allow a large T850 boat in and we don't have any 15 footers racing in T. I am sure the Drag group would look into having a T type class if there was interest and above all COMMITTMENT.


There is no minimum length for Formula Class.

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 PostPosted: October 18th, 2012, 12:56 pm   
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Andrew4ce wrote:
There is no minimum length for Formula Class.


Thanks Andrew.

RULE 16 • CLASS RULES
(16-1) FORMULA CLASS
A. AGE REQUIREMENT: 18
B. Entry level class to be designed by conducting club, subject to all CBF General Safety Rules, and to be legislated by conducting club officials. No national points for this class.
C. Formula class may be divided by the race committee in order to group boats by similar performance in order to promote competition and fairness


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 PostPosted: October 18th, 2012, 2:27 pm   
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There are several guys on Six Mile trying to get me to race in T. My boat is not centre steer. I don't think I am fast enough. I don't have the safety gear. I don't want to spend the money and then find out I don't want to race. I don't want to change my boat to centre steer.

OK, you told me facts and reasons, but no question. Obviously you would not have e-mailed me if you didn't have some interest. I am likely the reason the racers on the lake are asking you.
So here goes.
[1] don't change your boat at all.
[2] come to the T Party next spring.
[3] we will loan you the gear at the T Party and you can play with the T boat racers on the course [oval]. We will even let to drive a pure raceboat. Your cost is your share of the food bill. Last year it was about $20.00.
[4] If your not ready to race after the T party them come to the first race and mix. You may want to be a support person not a racer.
[5] If you want to try racing you can sign up for a day. We will slot your boat in heats than will make it a good experience.

THIS APPLIES FOR ANYONE WITH OR WITHOUT A BOAT. SUPPORT PEOPLE ARE VERY IMPORTANT AND WELCOME ADDITIONS.


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 PostPosted: October 20th, 2012, 10:04 am   
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I have not seen any up dates on this site or other sites about COR Class in CBF. What is happening?

COR is Outboard Racing Runabout for those new to the thread. It runs in APBA with two levels. One is a 100 cubic inch max. and one uses only the 2 liter Mercury V6. They run the new and old style Mod VP hulls.
Here is the up date:
We can't get enough committment and set a class spec for the CANADIAN COR CLASS. We thought of spec fuel injected 150 hp motors, lighter class weights, mod V4 motors allowing every make, small hulls 17 to 18 only, the use of only V bottom hulls to keep it in line with our T rules, the use of only Canadian made boats, ETC. I could only get 3 people to run and they would race regardless of what we did.
The problem Canadian racers have with COR in APBA, is the slow speed. Our T850 boats run in their speed range for the V6's and faster than their 100 class plus T is much more interesting to race and for fans to watch. We wanted our CANADIAN version of COR to be in the 80 to 85 mph range. That is as high a speed as we could go without manitory safety cells.
Have I given up on the class?
NO!
Everytime I say I am selling the 15 inch Mercury mid, gearcase and 150 EFI unit that I got for COR. My son says not yet.


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 PostPosted: October 22nd, 2012, 9:05 am   
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How much would it cost to rebuild an old Delta? I would need someone to do the work as I have no skills and no place to do the work?

That is a great question. I am sure there are many future racers in the same position. Not everyone has the skill set to do this type of work and many with limited skills actually do more damage to their boat trying to do it.
The first and most important thing about paying a professional to fix your boat is to remember that fellow's business is repairing boats. It is not a hobby for him and he makes his livng doing that job. He can't do it for free and if your not paying for his time to work on your boat, he can work on another boat and get paid.
To have a professional do all the work will cost you more than the boat is worth. BUT, it will be better than if you had done it yourself and you have the satisfaction. It is done right. It is the in between boat that can cost you even more money.
Those are the boats you pay a good dollar for and then find out that there are things needing repair or in some cases things you want to change. You keep hearing me say....RELAX>>TAKE YOUR TIME>>TRY IT FIRST>>>GET EXPERIENCE
Many get into racing and spend way too much money in the beginning. Its the RUSH! They spend tons of money in the beginning to build the perfect outfit, only to crash it and spend more money. Get a good starter outfit first and then spend as you get better. It also keeps the rush in your system longer as you have more things to look forward to every year.
So in answer to your question..Buy a middle of the range outfit that you can race without initially spending more money.


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