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Mike Hooper has done exactly that. 44XS cowl over an SST 60 power head on his VooDoo. Maybe someone can post a picture. Mike is on Facebook.

here ya go

I hope my Yamaha hood fits over a 56'r too lol

Mike is where I got the idea from, hes a friend of mine

I really like Ron Hills latest thru hub props with changeable spline parts, This allows you to use the same prop on a number of different motors. Here is an example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-25-70-H ... _82wt_1170

This prop can fit motors from 25 to 70 hp just by changing the spline kit. Excellent value!
This size would work on
25 to 70 Mercurys
650XS
30 to 70 Yamaha
40 to 50 Tohatsu

If you got a 12 x 22 then you can inclide the OMC models.

Lesson #13 Weight of a T boat Bare hull

First, the statement...THE LIGHTER THE BOAT, THE FASTER THE BOAT IS!
Not 100% true, It can be a factor, but there are more things combined that contribute to a boat being fast. So don't put your focus on just the weight of the boat. There are far more things to consider.

What should a light T750 or T850 weigh?
You can build one 160 to 175 lbs. It would need to be a kevlar or carbon fiber construction to be that weight and be strong enough to handle the race conditions.
The normal material 160 to 175 boats are too weak and unsafe. There is an added cost factor in going to Kevlar and carbon fibre.
Plus....THE BOAT DOES NOT NEED TO WEIGH 160 to 175 lbs!!

A bare hull weighing between 225 and 250 is perfect. You have a good strong boat and you will come close to the minimum total weight for the class. The deciding factor will be your own body weight.

We do not do a Lemans start. It is a rolling start. The added weight will make little or no difference if you remember your physics class about moving mass and energy.
Weight actually helps set the boat in the corner. A 725 lb Delta rig entering a corner at 68 mph has a tough time setting
for the turn. In general the lighter the boat the more difficult it is to drive in rough water. The boat wants to take off on you and fly.

Lesson #14 The use of a radio to communicate to the driver

In classes were the driver is in a safety cell they are a must have. It is not a requirement in T Class, however, there are diffinate advantages in having one. You will get better starts and you will know more about want is happening around you during the race. Plus you have another set of eyes to tell you about flag changes, number of laps run. It enables the driver to focus on driving.

There are several options:
[1] buy the lower cost Walkie Talkie multiple band radios. A pair can cost $100.00 to $200.00.
[2] buy a UHF or VHF set.
here is an example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorola-radios ... 288wt_1129

New UHF or VHF radio sets can cost $1200.00.

Used UHF or VHF can cost $70.00 to $150.00 each. IF? you buy a used radio[s] that were previous commercial use radios. They normally are well used and maybe more problems. A radio set used in a race car would not have nearly as many hours on them and if you buy fresh batteries, they will last a long time.

You don't necessarily need all the special head gear. An ear piece with a push to talk button [$30. to $40.] for the driver and a radio for the spotter is all you need. Radios like the SP50 model can be programmed and re-programmmed, so you can buy individual radios and program them to match.

Lesson #15 The use of "Green" Motor Oils and Gear Oils

Part of T Class is to promote the use of these products. According to the manufactures, these "Green" oils exceed the specifications of regular mineral based products. You are not forced to use them. However, it is a good promo for us to use them and have the GREEN sticker on your boat. If you are a seller of these products. Let yourself be known to the group.
It will benefit everyone.

Im a dealer for http://www.collett.mb.ca/ if anyone is interested let me know.

Lesson #16 Planning and collecting parts

T Class is really affected by supply and demand. Sometimes there seems to be an endless supply of parts available and then a few months later when you need a part. There are none available. The key is planning and having good reserve parts on hand. It would be great if your back-up parts are new. Most can’t or don’t want to tie up the money in those extra parts. The parts do not have to be new. They just need to be good. When you buy a used part. TAKE IT APART FIRST BEFORE YOU RUN IT! Used can be hardly used or completely used up. Even brand new racing parts break. See what you have first. This is a good time of the year to get parts. Buying used parts at a fair price really does not cost you any money. You can sell them for what you paid and if you improve them, you may get more than you paid. Timing is everything. SUPPLY AND DEMAND.
TOP GUN has a lot of stuff right now. Treat mom to an early Christmas present..buy her a motor. The $1500 Stingers are a good buy and Dave’s 56r is even better. One thing you may not have noticed about the OMC T750s. That class appears to be less hard on parts. I think the reason is the parts were not previously used in a racing or high performance applications, so they have less hard use. The 55 hp small nitro Yamaha cases are just better made and a better design. The 50 hp. Tohatsu and 40-50 hp. Yamaha parts are weaker, but they will hold up better on a T boat compared to a tunnel.
IT IS A GOOD FEELING NOT TO BE DEPENDED ON OTHERS WHEN YOUR IN URGENT NEED OF A PART AND YOU CAN REPLACE THE BROKEN PART WITH ONE YOU KNOW IS GOOD!!