HPBCANADA.COM

Looks professional

Thanks for the motovation. Here is a pic of some of the beginner mistakes. I know voids aint a good thing, so id assume i should take care of it. I think i messed around with the squeegee to much and maybe made the laminating resin mix into the thickened stuff to make it run away. Or, maybe my thickend stuff was not thick enough. Maybe i should of waited for it to firm up a bit longer? Im not to sure what happend, but its like the thickened resin in the radiuses sank away.



I did some injecting with a syringe earlier in the build, and may inject these. My other thought was grind out and patch.

Its not everywhere. About 1/3 of the rads have some voids.

Any advice, or simular experiences ?

Don’t grind it out.
Drill a small hole in each end of the void and inject it with resin. Don’t worry about anything less than 1/2” long.

I make plastic cones for thickened epoxy to put a bead into the corners, then lay the fabric over and smooth it out.

Thanks for the guidance on this. I did use a big ziploc bag with the corner snipped off as a pastry bag sqiurter, but I did run out and resort to goobing the extra needed in spots. I also used a trimmed squigee corner to smooth it into a nice radiuse afterwards. In hindsight i should have maybe contoured the rad in with the glass on top instead of before laying the glass in. The glass/fabric pulled it around well i was working it.

Live and learn

I will be doing a layer of 0-90 over all the 12oz 45/45 biaxial. Im thinking about putting some stitch matt over that also to match what is on the opposite side of the core. The gurus say symmetrical layup on either side of core material is important. The boat had gel and a bit of chop before i started on top. Im also thinking maybe just the stitch mat in the back third of the boat where it takes a beating.

Found some time to crank the heat, bring down the humidity and mix some epoxy up. I put down a layer of 0/90 over the whole core area, and stringers. Some bi-axil 12oz also on stringers were the floor rests. The floor has a layer of 4oz 0-90 on the underside. The stringers, and registers got a heathly amount of cabosal/milled fibres/chop strand thicked epoxy goo to bed into. I ran out of milled fibres and cabosal silica so i had to stop at most of the floor being filleted in. The top side of the floor will get a 4 oz 0-90 layer with some biax tape at the edges/butts.

Im beginning to understand why boats are expensive.

I have been chiselling away at the horrid amount of layers of what i think was woodflour resin originally, and then a layer of PL construction adhesive over that as past carpet glue. Its been a bitch to say it nicely. Probably close to 5-8 lbs removed. Im on the last bits now, and hope to get it flipped over for blueprinting/bottom repairs over the holidays. If this boat doesnt get wet this summer i will be upset with myself.

Its been a year since i posted here. The floor is in and a layer of 4oz 90 deg glass encompasses all of it. I just need to glass in the bow float box, a few cleats for gas tanks, control box station, and final fill coat over it all. The goal is to have it ready to paint and rig when i flip it back over from bottom work.

Keep on going! The end is near! Looks great!

I got the inside done mostly. The plan is to scuff/trim and paint when i flip it back over. I re-installed the air box in the bow, but Trimmed 6" for foot room. The control mounting box was going to be a cup holder, but realized it would make side-by-side seating to tight. I trimmed it down and now just looks "lite". I made small plywood cleats in the back to strap the tanks in. The battery is boxed in with the same cleats. A strap for the battery will hook on a stringer crossmember and up over down to a metal threaded insert in the Floor. Everything is well sealed with epoxy and 2oz weave cloth.

Ive never done this, and just got to the point of "just get it done".

Next was to flip and do the bottom



Its really going to be alot of work, learning, and alot of sand paper....

Im almost certain i will need to strip the gel off 1/3 of the bottom. Basiclly, all the wetted surface. Not sure exactly what i should do. On a positive note, the hook is much better then before recoring. Its about .100" in the deepest part on the pad, but the sides between the pad and first strakes have a bit of rocker. Maybe 1/16", about the thickness of the gel.

Any advice or experience would be appreciated.



Sanding off the clear coating with 240 RO sander. Does anyone have a gelcoat remover to rent?

Its looking awesome! Btw, how did you post thos pics like that? lol