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I was planning on flipping the boat to blue print AFTER i do the core/stringers/transom. I was gonna lay the pad down on a steel, and straight beam while supporting the rest with wood on the trailer. I was going to push down on the pad core from the ceiling with drywall posts and another flat bar while curing to take the hook out. All while paying great attention to the truness of the boat.
She has a mean trailer hook. Its hard to take a pic with the bar stock in hand, but its about .300" in the lowest spot rite where the middle roller was.

I firgure why structure in the hook and fill from the other side when i can take most of the work out while restructuring. The boat is a wet noddle currently so blueprinting with rotten core and virtially no stringers doesn't make sense to me.

Bad ideas, or on the right track?

Is Canada compaosites the be all end all in product line and price in the gta?

There is a place called Ray Plex local in Oshawa to me, but i will drive for a few hundred bucks and fresher supplies.

I will be buying all the core stuff in one shot hopfully.

Canada Comp is good, so is Noahs
Rayplex has smaller selection of products

I would be cautious trying to apply too much pressure. If you push down in one area it is going to flex the hull out of shape somewhere else. Get all your rotten core out first. Support the hull at the 2 outer transom corners and another block under the front keel and then check with your straight bar. An aluminum bar is usually more straight than a steel bar from the mill. It also has a more squared edge. A 1/8"-1/4" thick x 2"-3" wide aluminum flat bar works great. It's also half the weight of steel so it is much easier to hold and maneuver.
The hull should return to its natural shape when laying in your new materials to maintain the original hull configuration. You might have to add a few weights is certain spots to try and level it out. The imperfections can be filled from the outside when you are in the blueprinting stage prior to painting.

I have this aluminum 1.5 x .5 " x about 7ft long piece for a sanding/straight edge. Its hallow .100" wall so its light, and probably flexes the same as solid stock.

Thanks for the insight on the hook issue. I was woundering how much might come out once the core and stringers are gone. Its sounds like most of the hook comes out on its own from the experience mentioned. So, the boats own weight without any structure will be almost be enough probably.

My thought with the steel beam under the pad is just have the boat barly on it well working. Like having a straight gauge under it for reference and push against that is true. It would prevent rocker in the pad well weighting down the new core, and hopfully make it dead straight.

Ill have the trailer all fixed so i can roll it in and out of the shop when im grinding fiberglass to remove the core and stuff.

Getting my itch on. Using all the ppe people suggested, and so far its not to bad. I got a tyvec suit, ski googles, respirator, old shoes, fan and a shop vac.

The center core is VERY solid compared to the outsides. Looks like it was glassed in by two different people. Someone also replaced the stringers with pressure treated plywood. They were broken ecxatly were the trailer roller is under it. They were soaked, and the outer core is soaked everywhere. I vacuumed 90% off. The center core seems like it will be a bitch. There is no osmosis on the pad witch makes me think the center core is solid. Its comming out though.

It must feel good to get that shit out of there!

For damn sure the garage will smell better when its all gone!

I have gotten the outsides cleaned off and am into the center pad area now. Its just as rotten even though it sounded better with a hammer and looked alot less darker from the top. Dont trust any of them by looks and sound. I think the center sounded better with the hammer because the water was sealed in tighter in this area. It was actually sqirtting out when cutting into it.

Im getting motovated now. I was dreading this part, but its not so bad that its so rotten and easy to pop the rotten balsa off. I got alot of grinding cleanup to do then ill be running a layup schedule buy you guys for approval before buying materials.

I have about 8 hrs into removing the whole floor and core so far. This last little bit under the bow seems like its gonna take another 8 hrs. It is the only solid part ive ran into.

Its really thin under the core, and im really trying not to break the outer shell. Its taking some patience forsure. I bought one of those osilating chisel cutters im about to try instead of the hammer and chisel.

Might be another week before its all ground down and ready to start putting it back together.

You're making great progress.
I remember Murph complaining bitterly about the bow of my Ventura and ya, it's thin.
Don't be surprised to see drips of resin coming thru when you laminate core. Better to know than not.