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I've been grinding and sanding away on my Titus cone and was wondering what you guys have had good luck with?
I've tried this PC-7 stuff a couple times now and can't say I like it. Seems awful thick, never bonds well and sands like rubber. Maybe I got a bad batch.

I've always had good luck with run of the mill polyester resin mixed with cabosil or aluminum powder.
It's a bit of work to sand but it seems to stick.

What about primers?
I've used zinc chromate and the cheap CT etching primers with some success.
What gives the best bond?

Have at it!

Anyone know where you can buy black self etching primer?
CT only seems to have grey

Patrick... No matter what you do you will have to fix it... Again and again. therefore keep it simple and easy. Unless it was perimeter welded (which I don't believe titus does.. But I might be wrong) Either use metalized epoxy putty(strong but sucks to sand... But super easy to work with) or just light weight filler...


I have never seen anything but grey etch primer... I typically primed first with etch and then primed with sandable primer afterwards.

Once you fix it once.. Keep it primed. It makes quick easy work of sanding out cracks and re-squirting in mid July.

Just my invaluable 2 cents.

As a side note .. I probably have 40 plus hours worth of cone repairs under my belt.

I thought Titus did perimeter weld his cones... I'm not interested in finding out though lol
This one just has a very small crack on the water transfer portion as there is tons of filler used.
I had to cut the Titus mod cavitation plate so I can run my Mitchie foil! anyway so I figured it was a good time to do it all.


My last bob's case never gave me any trouble other then keeping colour on it. It never cracked once but was still sanded down and painted about 3 different times.

I like the west system epoxy! I mix it so it still has sag,but turn the case on it's side and try to angle the case so the stuff doesn't run too far!! I find the bond better than mixing a peanut butter batch and trying to work out all the voids!

I think the old school Black & Decker Workmate was made for L/U repairs/painting. Mine is 1985 vintage and still works great! I have resolved to the fact that I'm painting/fixing the lower at least once a season if I want it to look purty!

What about primers?
I've used zinc chromate and the cheap CT etching primers with some success.
What gives the best bond?

Have at it![/quote]


zinc chromate etch primer is best for aluminum, and harder to get now..due to v.o.c limits, its very unhealthy.. if you buy stuff you spray with a gun it will last and adhere way better than a spray bomb,even in the exact same product
id agree as west system is best, i think some use mar glass as its easier to work with

West systems the way to go in my opinion, I've done about 5 nose cone installs and it works the best and it's very hard to mess up if you have the metering pumps. I Use an exterior primer and use scepter engine paint thats colour matched for outboards and meant for lower unit applications. This seems to work quite well, it sticks without issue.

I use the 3M green marine filler , works well, easy to sand, and seems to last, done two cones with it so far. grey self etching primer.

Steve

I talked to Titus this week and he does perimeter weld his cones. Bondo cracking is just cosmetic.