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LET'S GO DINGHY RACING!!!! $1700.00 for a GOOD BOAT!

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 PostPosted: November 10th, 2017, 8:50 am   
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Hounddog wrote:
[quote="Hydroid"Just for lake i'd try 15hp OMC with quickie lower; there's 2 OMC 15hp A motors on 6ML rarely used.


I would be running a late model 30 hp Mercury Sea Pro 2 stroke.
http://www.louisianasportsman.com/class ... 861086.jpg[/quote]

I thought you said current engines.

Would a 1990’s omc 30hp be allowed

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 PostPosted: November 10th, 2017, 10:07 am   
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I would be running a late model 30 hp Mercury Sea Pro 2 stroke.
http://www.louisianasportsman.com/class ... 861086.jpg

I thought you said current engines. Would a 1990’s omc 30hp be allowed

I did say current engines. The motor would not need to be a 2017 model, but it should the last model for that motor. A new 2017 30 hp outboard is costly and many people may not want to purchase one. The 30 hp 3 cylinder 2 stroke Yamaha has been the same basic motor since 1984, so it is fine. OMC did produce a 3 cylinder 2 stroke model after the 2 cylinder model so the 3 cylinder would be the current model. So would your 1990's OMC 30 hp be allowed....??. I don't think anyone would protest. Many of the 4 stroke models have been produced for years, so a person could buy a used 2000 ish 4 stroke.

REMEMBER...THE CLASS IS ONLY IN THE DEVELOPMENT STAGE .....THERE ARE NO SET RULES YET....JUST IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS

My thought behind this rule was to avoid a racer running something different that was not readily available to the other racers. People will always look for an advantage. I would worry about the 30H Mercury and also LC's 30 Chrysler. It would be great if we could have an outboard manufacturer to supply us with 8 identical motors maybe even JET DRIVE models. http://www.tohatsu.com/outboards/35jet_spec.html Then everyone has exactly the same motor.


Last edited by Hounddog on November 11th, 2017, 6:29 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 PostPosted: November 10th, 2017, 10:23 am   
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My suggestion to start would be put 2 stoke cc limit and 4 stroke cc limit and let people use what they want, no year limitations. Put in a rule that says in 5 years it has to have a manufacture date of XXXX or newer. Rules can change, but gives people an idea where this is going if it gets popular. I'd put some form of claiming rule in too to stop people from tinkering until there are enough to have a class for stock and mods. Maybe on both motors and props. Keep it simple and fun in the beginning.

Interesting side note... I'm going to a meeting tonight about a new daily show at the Boat Show. Racing 5hp tohatsu powered tiller boats in the boat show lake! Not sure how they plan to accomplish this, but will know more tonight. Having one of derby boats on display there might be good opportunity.

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 PostPosted: November 10th, 2017, 7:43 pm   
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There are two additional features we can have with this boat.
The V bottom portion of the boat is welded to the floor. It is a separate portion of the hull. We can use the space between the floor and the boat bottom to install some flotation. We should have an access hole in the floor and a drain plug in the back of this portion of the boat.. We can fill that section with foam. The foam can be dissolved and removed if required. The added depth created by the V portion and the floor in the boat will enable us to have a drain plug at the floor level to make the boat self draining.
We can look at a lily pad type material for the floor cover. That should give the boat the required flotation.


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 PostPosted: November 10th, 2017, 8:15 pm   
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The Class needs a name....a name is important in order to market the class....the name needs a logo so promotion items and clothing can be sold and for class members to wear.

I SUGGEST:

DINGHY DAWGS

We can get the rights for something like this for a few dollars
http://toonclips.com/600/outline-cartoo ... -56238.jpg


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 PostPosted: November 11th, 2017, 11:00 pm   
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Hi Guys, Jamie here from minijetboatbuilder.com. Hounddog and I have been conversing through Kijiji and he suggested i get on here and introduce myself. So here I am.

A little background. originally from NZ been building boats 13 years. Anything from Kayaks to Cruisers to Sail boats 80ft+. I have been in business 3 years now building and supplying parts for small aluminum jetboats using PWC drivetrain. Some of my antics here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUGKk4H ... gPeM_4aQ91

As Don quoted me i originally built the outboard boat with the idea of some racing at Petrie Island in Ottawa. Its been quite a busy summer and i haven't really had the time to explore that much but I did manage to get out in the boat a bit and think that it could work with some changes. After reading through all the comments and suggestions here I'm getting a little excited again! Let's do this!

I don't have a lot of experience with organizing events such as this. What permissions are needed etc etc but am willing to help out where i can. The idea of sponsoring some boats has been going through my mind and how much $ i can afford to tie up in something like this. The idea of renting boats out at a club i think could work for everyone. I think i could build up to 4 boats for a club at no initial cost. If the boats were rented at $100 per day (or some other amount) half goes to pay off the boat. Half goes to the club to cover other expenses. Once the boat is paid off the club retains the 2nd half which can go to expanding the fleet, promoting the club/league, buying motors etc etc. You could potentially rent the same boat to more than one person in a day if the races were done in heats which would make it easier to grow the league and would pay off start up expenses faster. Im sure there would be a dealer somewhere that would sponsor/discount some engines to a club in exchange for advertising etc. If your talking boat shows you might even try to approach different engine representatives such as BRP, MERC etc and see if they can offer anything

As far as boat design, after reading comments and driving the boat there are some things i would keep the same and some i would change
- no step back in the hull, boat will plane out quicker and drive nicer/more predictable with a bigger motor on/single person.
- reduce weight of the boat by CNC forming instead of extrusion/welding, go from 0.125" sheet to 0.100"
- reduce engine weight by using short shaft motor? only issue may be harder to find used engines and boat transom will be lower - not good for day use.
- hand holds inside the boat to protect digits
- removeable floor with removable floatation makes a boat easy to repair if needed
- multi use design, more versatile for families wanting to race/cottage/fish weekends
- tiller steer, keeps cost down in rigging and also means engines can be changed easier between classes/uses
- 15HP lake/kids rating 30HP race rating - no mods other than prop, again keeps cost down, people innovating/thinking

An idea to keep things equal - introduce weight brackets for the motors rather than age. Has to be between x-y lbs which will likely eliminate older/obscure models by default and keep power to weight equal no matter what new motors come out/mods are done. I really like the idea of Tohatsu motor - i had not seen them before. Not sure about the jet but that motor in a prop might be the go

That's about what i have for now. I'll keep watching and any questions for me don't hesitate to reach out.


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 PostPosted: November 12th, 2017, 12:51 am   
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Hi Jamie. What is the current transom height and angle. It looks low even for a short shaft motor. I have been raising the motor (30hp short shaft Johnson) on my boat and am currently at a 21” transom. I would have to make a new bracket to run higher. My 15 Johnson short shaft also runs on a 20” transom, hopefully higher when I get my props back. I could bring either motor for you to try. Matt

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 PostPosted: November 12th, 2017, 7:02 am   
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NEXT STEPS
Thanks Jamie for your post and commitment to the class.

This thread can be the major tool in moving this class forward.

Boat racing in Canada is governed by the Canadian Boating Federation [CBF] .
Their annual convention is next weekend.
There are several CBF clubs that could benefit by having this class as part of their events.
- OPBRA
- TORC
- maybe the Jet group out west

STEP ONE:
Brent has confirmed that OPBRA would run this class as part of their events once it was established.
I think OPBRA should mention this class at the convention next weekend and the CBF people can follow this thread for information and up-dates. I do not think we need a presentation at this point.
TORC....I know Andrew likes this idea. I am sure he will mention it at their Stock Outboard meeting. There are several SO racers on this site, so we will see what interest they have.

THE BOAT:
We know Jamie's schedule. The boat is his and he has the final say in it's design. Let's continue to think about ways to improve the design. We can meet with Jamie when he returns.

THE BOAT SHOW JAN 2018
It would help if the people on this site that have connections with the outboard manufactures mention this class to them and show
them this thread. Hopefully they will follow the thread and support the class.


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 PostPosted: November 13th, 2017, 9:01 am   
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Arltralite wrote:
Hi Jamie. What is the current transom height and angle. It looks low even for a short shaft motor. I have been raising the motor (30hp short shaft Johnson) on my boat and am currently at a 21” transom. I would have to make a new bracket to run higher. My 15 Johnson short shaft also runs on a 20” transom, hopefully higher when I get my props back. I could bring either motor for you to try. Matt


From Jamie's post:
- reduce engine weight by using short shaft motor? only issue may be harder to find used engines and boat transom will be lower - not good for day use.

The best transom height would be 20". This height allows the most options. You could run a long shaft motor or a short shaft depending on what the owner wants. 20 inch has the extra height to reduce the amount of water splashing over the transom.
There is not much difference in the weight between a manufacturers long and short shaft models. Most of the 15 to 30 motors are available in long or short shaft models. And there are lots of both models new & used for sale. Some models are much heavier compared to others with the same horsepower. The new 2018 4 strokes in the 15 to 30 hp range are lighter than they were a few years ago.
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 PostPosted: November 13th, 2017, 12:13 pm   
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DOES ANYONE KNOW ABOUT CHINA MANUFACTURED 30 HP MOTORS?
Any brand better for a 30 hp?
Many motors including some Mercury motors are built there [60 hp 4 stroke for example].
By far they are the least costing.
For a motor that would only be used a few times a year at our events.
Likely the best option if the class was providing the motor and not a manufacturer.
I must admit they look nice!
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00lC ... OTH30-.jpg

Product Description: 2-stroke 30HP outboard motor OTH30

2-stroke 30HP Outboard motor(Manual start
Max. Output: 30HP
Full throttle operating range (rpm): 4, 500 - 5, 500
Displacement (ml): 703 6) Bore x stroke (mm): 80 x 70 7)
Dimensions (L x W x H) (mm): 1, 073 x 402 x 1, 350mm
Weight (kg): 73.6 9)
Gear ratio: 2 (26: 13)
Tiller control
Recommended propeller: 3 x 12-1/4"4 x 8" - 3 x 11-1/4" x 14"

We may find the 2 cylinder 2 stroke 30 hp is weak compared to a 3 cylinder 2 stroke 30 hp motor.
There is the 40 hp limit rule for teens in Ontario.
So we could go 40 hp 2 cylinder
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j10Gs ... i-van-.jpg


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