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Boomer needs a T boat motor..

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 PostPosted: May 28th, 2013, 12:41 pm   
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That's a pretty good jig you have there to make sure the hull keeps it's shape. But where do you eat your lunch????

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 PostPosted: May 28th, 2013, 1:50 pm   
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It is an interesting project. Years ago before there were good small 12 to 13 foot V hulls. Most racers did exactly what you are doing with this project. They took a larger hull and cut it down. They would cut and fit the original deck to the cut down hull. One of the best hulls to use was a Critchfield, not the Danny Critchfield race hull, but the 17 foot family boat. When cut down it became a 15 footer and most racers ran it in FI class which was for 89 cubic inch motors.
If you decide to run and race that boat with your 3 cylinder Mercury. You would be allowed to run in the T750 class. The boat should be a 50 to 55 mph outfit and very competitive.
Finding a used Delta or a used VooDoo and rebuilting it can be far more costly than going this root. Many of these hulls are FREE and motors are not costly. The trick is to know your hull designs and choose a good one.
Remember on a T750 hull a little wider pad is better.


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 PostPosted: May 28th, 2013, 2:26 pm   
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Hounddog wrote:
It is an interesting project. Years ago before there were good small 12 to 13 foot V hulls. Most racers did exactly what you are doing with this project. They took a larger hull and cut it down. They would cut and fit the original deck to the cut down hull. One of the best hulls to use was a Critchfield, not the Danny Critchfield race hull, but the 17 foot family boat. When cut down it became a 15 footer and most racers ran it in FI class which was for 89 cubic inch motors.
If you decide to run and race that boat with your 3 cylinder Mercury. You would be allowed to run in the T750 class. The boat should be a 50 to 55 mph outfit and very competitive.
Finding a used Delta or a used VooDoo and rebuilting it can be far more costly than going this root. Many of these hulls are FREE and motors are not costly. The trick is to know your hull designs and choose a good one.
Remember on a T750 hull a little wider pad is better.


thats the idea,. :idea: my plan was to build it exactly 13'11" so i could use it in t 750 or t 850.. we'll see what it weighs once its done, i hope it floats :lol: once i get the inside finnished im going to flip it and fix the bottom, i think the pad is 7" right now.

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 PostPosted: May 29th, 2013, 12:17 pm   
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When you cut down some of the larger hulls, you can end up with a BAT Boat style hull with extreme lift. You can reduce the weight buy using a foam core strong box. You can also reposition the deck farther back on the boat to get more weight to the stern.


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 PostPosted: May 29th, 2013, 1:29 pm   
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Hounddog wrote:
. You can reduce the weight buy using a foam core strong box. .


thats the next step i need some core material. and for it to stop raining in muskoka

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 PostPosted: June 5th, 2013, 4:37 pm   
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got some more material,,nida core, resin, and foam lotts of foam!!!!!..Image

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im going to fill either side of the c**k pit with flotation foam...
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89 excel 91 valero,81mph sold
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19' tempest picklefork 84 mod vpcarb 102mph


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 PostPosted: June 9th, 2013, 6:30 pm   
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throw some set back at it
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89 excel 91 valero,81mph sold
1988 baja x 15, chopped to 13'11" modvp Bridgeport 91mph
19' tempest picklefork 84 mod vpcarb 102mph


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 PostPosted: June 9th, 2013, 6:34 pm   
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Image

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89 excel 91 valero,81mph sold
1988 baja x 15, chopped to 13'11" modvp Bridgeport 91mph
19' tempest picklefork 84 mod vpcarb 102mph


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 PostPosted: July 31st, 2013, 7:52 pm   
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round 2, Image

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foam is in, floor is in, need more nida core, and its going to look like a boat,, kinda,

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 PostPosted: August 1st, 2013, 3:18 pm   
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This is a picture of a cut down Sport E boat. You can see how they used the lower section of the hull especially in the lead boat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Boat-Race- ... 2a26c6f2fa


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